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Claire’s second bankruptcy signals deeper challenges for mall-based retailers

Earlier this month, for the second time in seven years, Claire’s filed for bankruptcy.

The retailer will avoid complete collapse by selling most of its North American business to private equity firm Ames Watson, but its ongoing struggles serve as a cautionary tale. Marketing tactics alone cannot keep a brand afloat without a cohesive strategy—one that unites product, customer experience, and cultural relevance.

Here’s a deeper dive into why Claire’s hasn’t been able to find success in today’s retail landscape.

Consumers moved on, but Claire’s didn’t

For decades, Claire’s was synonymous with affordable accessories and rite-of-passage ear piercing services. But while consumer preferences evolved, the brand’s assortment and store experience did not.

  • Today’s younger shoppers expect more than bargain-priced jewelry—they want brands that inspire confidence, foster community, and celebrate self-expression.
  • “Claire’s just didn’t grow up,” said our analyst Suzy Davidkhanian. “It should have elevated its current assortment and offered more unique products instead of just adding random new categories to the mix.”

Instead, Gen Z shoppers are gravitating toward trend-driven platforms like TikTok Shop, Shein, and Temu, which offer the same low prices but with the convenience of skipping a trip to the mall.

Piercing lost its edge

Ear piercing has long been Claire’s signature service, drawing millions into its stores. But with mall traffic waning, volumes declined.

  • At the same time, new players like Rowan and Studs reimagined the experience with licensed professionals, hypoallergenic jewelry, and a more premium feel.
  • Even retailers like Ulta and Five Below introduced piercing kiosks, eroding Claire’s advantage.

“Back in the ‘80s, when you got your ears pierced, you did it at Claire’s,” said Davidkhanian. “But now there’s more upscale places with professional nurses doing the piercing. Claire’s should have tried to match some of the newer players that are creating salon-like atmospheres and Instagrammable moments.”

Bankruptcy can’t fix a broken model

Claire’s struggles weren’t just about changing consumer tastes—it also faced operational and financial setbacks. But its real downfall was a lack of innovation across its product assortment and in-store services.

While the brand may get a second life under Ames Watson, which also owns other mall brands like Lids and Champion Teamwear, it’s likely that Claire’s won’t find lasting success without big changes.

“When you come out of bankruptcy, if you don’t change your business model and structure, you’re going to end up in the same place,” said Davidkhanian.

The bottom line: For mall-based brands, nostalgia alone won’t secure relevance. Staying competitive requires strategic reinvention, meaning brands must:

  • Anchor tactics in strategy. Marketing must reflect real evolution in product and experience.
  • Differentiate in-store services. If physical traffic is vital, elevate services and build community around them.
  • Evolve with their audience. Keep assortments, environments, and messaging aligned with consumer expectations.
  • Act decisively post-restructuring. Incremental changes won’t suffice; bold reinvention is essential.

 

This was originally featured in the Retail Daily newsletter. For more retail insights, statistics, and trends, subscribe here.

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