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Tariffs challenge Burberry’s turnaround

The news: Burberry said it would cut around 20% of its workforce, or roughly 1,700 jobs, to right its ship amid a perfect storm of luxury challenges.

The announcement follows another lackluster quarter, with sales down 6% YoY.

The big picture: Burberry, like the rest of the luxury sector, is contending with a global slump in demand as consumers in China and elsewhere rethink designer purchases in the face of economic uncertainty. The company’s struggles have been compounded by a misjudged push upmarket, which failed to draw in wealthy consumers while putting its clothes and accessories out of reach for aspirational shoppers.

While early efforts to go “back to basics”—and a more reasonable price point—showed promise, particularly among US consumers, those gains could quickly be wiped out by tariffs and macroeconomic volatility.

  • Sales in the Americas fell 4% last quarter, after rising 4% during the holiday quarter.
  • Burberry opted not to disclose the estimated impact of tariffs on its business, although it will likely be sizable since the US accounts for roughly one-fifth of its sales.
  • Unlike competitors Hermès and Louis Vuitton, Burberry has limited ability to counter tariffs with price increases, given the failure of its elevation strategy.

Our take: Burberry’s cost-cutting measures will free up much-needed resources for the floundering company as it navigates a challenging period for luxury brands. While many were counting on US consumers to buffer softer sales in Asia, tariffs have completely changed that equation.

  • Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault told French senators that US demand for the company’s products has seen a “quite strong” drop in the past few weeks, per Reuters.
  • Even stalwarts like Mytheresa are seeing US growth slow as consumer sentiment chills appetite for expensive purchases.

With demand—and tariff rates—increasingly uncertain, companies will have to tightly manage expenses while trying to protect their brand cachet.

Editor’s note: This content is part of EMARKETER’s subscription Briefings, where we pair daily updates with data and analysis from forecasts and research reports. Our Briefings prepare you to start your day informed, to provide critical insights in an important meeting, and to understand the context of what’s happening in your industry. Non-clients can click here to get a demo of our full platform and coverage.

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